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Vintage Watches A 1970 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, A 1952 Omega Constellation, And A 1990s Omega Speedmaster Reduced

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This Week's Vintage Watches

Five new vintage watches. That's it, that's all. See you next week. Well, actually, there is still a solid collection of vintage available from previous drops as well. We hope that one catches your eye be it fresh to our site or offered for sale previously. There's no time like the beginning of the year to review your watch box. If nothing on our page strikes your fancy, feel free to reach out directly and let us know what vintage watch you are looking to add to your collection in 2023!

Beyond those in the title and highlighted in full by Hodinkee team members below, the full selection can be perused in the slideshow below or in the Shop. Read on for some anecdotes, personal thoughts, and speculation on our three favorites.

If they had a theme, this week's highlights might fall into the value picks bucket but let's not say that too loud, the watches might get embarrassed. A simple, Oyster Perpetual Date in its 34mm case might seem unassuming, but once you see the example Rich talks about, you'll know why it is not a Rolex to be overlooked. Saori Omura comes to the table with an Omega Constellation, another watch that might not ruffle feathers in name but certainly packs a punch on the wrist. Lastly, stick around for Sean Egan's thoughts on why Omega's Speedmaster Reduced deserves to be more than just a cult classic. As always, click here to see all the vintage watches currently available in the Hodinkee Shop.

1970 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Ref. 1501
By Rich Fordon

I have always been drawn to small watches. Yeah, I am on the younger side and missed the whole "Paneristi" movement. If that is your thing I have no problem with you, some of my best friends are Panerai enthusiasts, it's fine I promise. Rather than 44mm and above I am, and always have been, more comfortable in something 34mm and below. Lucky for me, this Rolex reference 1501 Oyster Perpetual Date is exactly 34mm. Funny how that worked out isn't it?

A vintage Rolex on the wrist

In all seriousness, confidently wearing something of this size and vintage and condition comes off as just that, serious. That's not to say that everything about wearing a watch or enjoying a watch comes down to what other people might think when they see it on your wrist. To some collectors that is a major consideration while to others it just doesn't matter at all. Wherever you might fall on that spectrum, watches like the 1501 we have here fully express a level of sophistication that can only come from excellent examples of a relatively humble reference.

A vintage Rolex

These vintage OPs are super understated in all the right ways yet still large enough to have a presence on most wrists. The Oyster case and bracelet shine but the watch doesn't draw attention across the room. Where this particular watch does grab attention is upon closer inspection. The originally black dial has taken on a "tropical" patina with an even spotting that is really stunning in person. Furthermore, the luminous material has aged to a perfectly complimenting shade of creamy off-white. If you're after a subtle flex, this is the vintage watch to have. Get all of the details right here.

1952 Omega Constellation Ref. 2782-2SC
By Saori Omura

This is the kind of watch I see and immediately think, "Yes, this is why I love a nice vintage watch." There are current re-editions of the various Constellations, but no matter how hard we try, this is the sort of watch that a modern production piece cannot simply replicate. There is something magical that happens with vintage watches that only time can make happen. 

The Omega "Constellation" model came about in 1952 as the brand's new shining star, literally with a star motif applied on the dial. The collection was positioned as the luxury category, often offered in 18k yellow gold cases and bracelets at times. The concept was an elegant aesthetic on the outside and a highly-regarded chronometer movement on the inside. On the caseback, the engraving of the Kew Observatory was placed as an homage and to signify the quality of the movement on the inside. Keeping a historical perspective, seven years after the end of World War II, society at large was ready to embrace a better and brighter future ahead.

A vintage Omega Constellation

Depending on how you see the watch, this Constellation is somewhat overstyled, but not too much I would argue. I'd say it has just enough character to keep the watch interesting but without going over the top. Starting with the stylized elongated lugs which definitely give this watch a presence on your wrist. 

And let's talk about the dial, shall we? I love a good vintage black dial and this one clearly has it. It has a feel of a softer texture which you don't see in a modern watch because you can't quite recreate it in a modern watch. It has to go through time to get to this specialness. The slightly domed style gives the watch an extra depth with the minute makers strategically placed at the higher plane of the dial. The matching gold-tone details from bold applied markers to the Omega logo at 12 had aged beautifully in varying shades of golden hues which look even better against a vintage black dial. And to tie these elements all together, the crosshair motif is like a golden bow on top of a gift box.

A vintage Omega Constellation on the wrist

Some people may prefer the crisp and precise nature of modern watches as I do now and then. But there is something convincing about vintage watches because they all become unique over time. For me, it's all about "the whole is greater than the sum of the parts." This watch feels warm, and inviting, and comes with a bit more human touch with some imperfections. For some, it may just look like a boring old watch, but for ones who truly love vintage watches, I know it speaks to us intuitively. This is why this simple Omega Constellation is my pick of the week.

1990s Omega Speedmaster Reduced Schumacher Cart Edition Ref. 3510.80.00
By Sean Egan

Michael Schumacher has a lot of watches associated with his name. Rightly so, as he's one of the most legendary race car drivers to have ever gotten behind the wheel. So much so that you can find a listing for every watch to ever come in a Speedmaster reduced case referred to as a "Schumacher." I understand why – the guy has massive appeal, and he's how a lot of folks found out about this form factor of Omegas racing watch. Released in 1988, the reduced didn't get its association with the winningest racer until '96 when he was awarded two limited editions in his name, one red and one yellow,  to honor his presence on the Ferrari team. There was a third colorful Speedmaster introduced that year as well. The Omega Speedmaster Automatic Cart Racing with a blue dial and CART racing logo at six o'clock. These three pieces were launched all at the same time, at the same event, all at Michael Schumacher's cart racing track. The red and yellow watches are attributed to Michael Schumacher by the brand however, I can't find anything from them calling the blue watch a Schumacher Speedmaster.

An Omega Speedmaster reduced on the wrist

There's more racing history to be found in association with this watch. Way back in 2016, we covered a sale of one of these watches right here. As it turns out, for Christmas of 1997 Paul Newman, yes, that Paul Newman, ordered a batch of these watches to be gifted to his and Carl Haas racing team. The watches gifted to the team were all engraved with the team name and the year. I don't think it's been confirmed exactly how many of these pieces were ordered, but it's worth keeping an eye out, as it seems these may turn up for sale eventually. While this piece isn't one of those very provenance-filled pieces, you can check this very similar one right here.

An Omega Speedmaster reduced

Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the Hodinkee Shop? Email us at vintage@hodinkee.com with some photos. Want to sell your pre-owned watch? Click here.