1950s Universal Genève Polerouter Ref. 20217-4

Why This Watch Matters

The Polerouter was designed by the legendary Gérald Genta when he was 24 years old. Here is the model in one of its more pure forms in great vintage condition.

The Full Story

Universal Genève's Polerouter was originally released in 1954 and was designed by Gérald Genta, sculptor of the AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. There are nearly an estimated 1,000 executions of the Polerouter that grew from its original Genta design in 1954 to being printed on most time-only watches created by Universal Genève in the 1970s.

The manufacturer was in partnership with Scadinavian Airline System (SAS) to develop an automatic watch to be more resistant to the magnetism of the North and South poles. This example is fitted with the original bumper-style movement, before Universal Genève introduced the caliber 215 with a micro-rotor. The watch also features a handsome black cross-hair dial and silvered outer track, giving it a very sophisticated appearance. The lyre lugs on the Polerouter are reminiscent of the lugs on the Omega Speedmaster, giving this time-only watch a bit of a sportier look. The Polerouter is a prime example of how Universal Genève produced some great time-only watches besides the more discussed chronographs.

While there are 1,000 executions, this reference and variant is possibly the purest iteration of Genta's first design. Without a date complication and in the original form as the Polarouter from 1954, the reference 20217-4 is an extremely clean design from extremely strong pedigree.

We paired this UG with our Reid strap in taupe because you know we love taupe around here. The color plays between tan, and grey in person depending on the light and goes really well with the dial.

The Fine Print

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Glossy cross-hair dial
- Bumper automatic movement
- Clean no-date design
- Lyre lugs

Things To Know:

- Unsigned replacement crown 
- Lume has darkened on dial 

This Polerouter is in overall good, honest vintage condition. The case is strong with scratches, marks and light nicks. The "lyre" shape of the lyre lugs is clearly visible. The caseback engravings and numbers have worn over the years, but they are visible still visible. The reverse of the lugs have some scratches from strap changing.

The dial is in attractive condition overall with a light patina throughout. The center of the dial above the hands has some wear; this is not very noticeable. The outer ring has a bit of patina. Most of the luminous material on the dial has degraded and darkened, the lume is hard to notice. The hands have developed some patina. The lume on the hands has aged to a dark custard color.

The crystal has light scratches. The crown is an unsigned replacement and shows some wear. The dial, case, movement, and crystal are signed by Universal Genève. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.