1980s Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 3788 With 'Sigma' Dial

Why This Watch Matters

A Golden Ellipse adhering to the golden ratio with a gold case and dial.

The Full Story

The minimalist aesthetics of the Golden Ellipse's oval-shaped case with simple baton hour markers and hands have been in the company's collection since 1968. The design is said to be based on the Golden Ratio derived by ancient Greek mathematicians. No wonder we're immediately drawn to it.

Collectability's John Reardon – formerly of Christie's, Sotheby's, and Patek Philippe USA –  described the Ellipse as, "the canvas to tell the story of Patek Philippe to the world," at the time of its development and introduction in 1968. In the face of the looming quartz crisis, Patek made a conscious effort through the 1960s to acquire Switzerland's best craftsmen, whom the brand had traditionally hired on a third-party basis, bringing world-class bracelet, dial, and case manufacturing under one roof and under the Calatrava cross. The brand saw its Ellipse collection, designed and developed by these now in-house makers, as a work of art more than a timepiece. Advertisements of the era marketed the Ellipse as a "non-watch," explaining that "people who merely need to know the time of day will choose a watch, not a Patek Philippe." For more information about what the Ellipse collection means to the brand and collectors today, check out Mr. Reardon's video here.

Today's example is a Golden Ellipse with a quartz movement that was first introduced in 1982 and produced for approximately a decade. The ref. 3788 features a dial and bezel in the classic 1.6 to 1 "golden ratio" that the entire collection was built off of as well as hidden lugs. These integrate the strap in a way that highlights the real star of the show, the proportion and finishing of the case and dial. Finally, an iconic design cue of the Ellipse collection is the blued gold dial, like the one we have here. 

Additionally, the dial is made entirely of gold, as indicated by the "Sigma'' symbols at the bottom of the dial. The Sigma indication was part of a larger effort by the Swiss watch industry trade association l’Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or (APRIOR) to emphasize the value of watches using any gold material. The finish is actually a bit of a secret for Patek; some proprietary process within the manufacturer's walls turns an 18k gold dial blue for a result that's uniquely stunning in the metal.

The Fine Print

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Classic Elllipse shape
- "Sigma" all blue gold dial
- Date complication
- Patek Philippe 18k buckle

Things To Know:

- Scratches on case from opening

This Patek Philippe is overall in very good condition. The case is strong with scratches. There is some patina on the case. The nine o'clock side of the case has some more noticeable scratches and nicks from previous opening attempts. The hallmarks are still crisp on the rear of the case.

The dial and hands are in great condition and have developed a light patina. 

The Patek Philippe buckle is in 18k yellow gold and signed on the back. The crown is of the correct shape and size for this reference and is correctly unsigned. The dial, case, movement, and buckle are all signed by Patek Philippe. This watch was photographed on a 145mm/5.5inch wrist.

*NOTE: Please be aware that this watch comes with an authentic alligator leather strap. If the watch is shipped to any international destination, we will not be able to send the lizard strap with it due to laws regarding the sale and shipment of exotic leather goods.