1950s Universal Genève Dress Watch Ref. 211203/2

Why This Watch Matters

Here is a simple, time-only Universal Genève in great condition with applied Arabic hour markers.

The Full Story

We love finding these simple yet robust stainless-steel time-only watches, especially from a brand like UG. Universal Genève was an ambitious watch manufacturer and a master of design, ranging from the production of slim-profile dress watches to more complex watches, like the Tri-Compax. While many adventurous watch manufacturers in the 1960s and 1970s were challenging the status quo in the world of horology with proprietary case designs or advanced movement constructions, Universal Genève was producing interesting dial designs to attract its customers.

The example you see here is reminiscent of a time in watchmaking where brands were creating pieces simply for the utility of wearing and knowing the time. If you only owned this watch in the 1950s when it was new, you needed nothing more. The stainless steel case has a water-resistant screwdown caseback providing that extra bit of ease of mind in wearing it more often than a snapback case. On the dial, the details are really well done with applied Arabic hour markers, small plots of luminous material, and extremely well-designed dauphine hands. Having a central running seconds hand on a 1950s time-only watch is more uncommon than you may think. Without a sub-seconds register at six o'clock, the dial is far more minimalist and presents even slightly larger on the wrist. Overall this Universal Genève is a great watch for anyone looking for something classic and simple.

We paired this Universal Genève time-only with our Reid strap in taupe for a look that can go with anything and leans into the casual design of the watch.

The Fine Print

Maker: Universal Genève
Model: N/A
Reference: 211203/2
Year: Circa 1959
Case No: 1966652
Material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 33mm diameter; 9mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: Yes. radium
Caliber: Universal Genève, manually-wound, caliber 1105
Bracelet/Strap: HODINKEE The Reid Goatskin Watch Strap In Taupe
Lug Width: 18mm
Box/Papers: No

What we Love and What You Should Know

Things We Love:

- Applied hour markers
- Minimal text on dial
- Central seconds hand

Things To Know:

- Scratches on case
- Mark inside ten o'clock hour marker

This Universal Genève is in overall nice honest condition. The case is strong with scratches. The edges on the lugs are fairly crisp. The caseback has a few scratches that appear to be from the case being opened. The numbers on the caseback are still clearly visible.

The dial is in very nice condition with a light patina. The white is nearly an eggshell color. The lume on the dial shows some signs of degradation and has developed patina with some dark areas. The hands have developed patina and the lume has darkened. There is a small mark inside the ten o'clock hour marker. The hour markers have developed patina. 

The dial, case, and movement are all signed by Universal Genève. The movement is stamped "HON," indicating the watch was imported to the US for original sale. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.