The Wine Front – Bannockburn has never done things by halves when it comes to its sauvignon blanc. This 2017 release was made in three separate batches: one partially destemmed with skin contact, one barrel fermented and the third fermented in tank. It’s low in alcohol, but almost sweet with fruit ripeness. Sweet fruit but cutting acidity. Fun and then serious. Lemon, almonds, florals and metal. Red apples and rose petals. It’s as much nuance as drive, though there’s plenty of the latter. In all honesty – and we don’t say this often of sauvignon blanc – it needs a little time. Though there is a great deal to admire here. And that’s without mentioning the check of chubbiness to the texture, which works a treat.